We were midway through a long, slow road trip up the east coast – just me and Greg, taking our time, when we decided to take a detour via Albury Wodonga. Here’s how we spent our time:
Day One
8:00am – Time for Breakfast
Since we’d pulled in after dark and gone straight to sleep, our trip really started once we woke. We went to the Quest hotel restaurant in the heart of Albury, 2640 Restaurant & Bar, and I ordered the big breakfast while Greg got the granola. After 30 years together, I know that he always orders healthy but then steals half my food, which is why I’m smart enough to always get the big breakfast. We popped into the Visitor Information Centre and got some maps and inspiration for the next two days.
9:30am – A Walk Through History
Greg loves his history, so after breakfast, we took ourselves on a leisurely self-guided walk around Albury’s historic centre. We got a map and followed the Albury CBD Historic Building Walking Tour. The architecture tells a rich story of times gone by, and the buildings are still in use today. While Greg was snapping shots of buildings, I may have popped into a few shops ‘just to look’ and ended up with a new candle from The Real Florist and a STUNNING Australian-flora-print shirt dress from Di Billiet Homewares.
10:30am – Art and Reflection
We spent a quiet hour or two at Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA), which surprised us with its beautifully put together exhibitions and very quiet atmosphere. The air-con was a treat too, as the day was already warming up. Across the lawn of QEII Square, the LibraryMuseum had engaging displays that kept us entertained for a good long while.
12.30pm – Smelling the Roses
Since Greg loves his gardening, we had to, of course, check out the Albury Botanic Gardens. What a charming place! It was immaculate and very quiet, with just a few locals on lunch breaks or parents pushing prams. What an incredible place to raise kids. The shady trees made for a lovely amble among the scent of fresh-cut grass and osmanthus blossoms.
1.30pm – Time for a Ride
Greg loves his mountain biking, but it’s not for me, so while he free-falls down hills, I go for a nature walk. We headed across the Murray to the Wodonga side (a traffic-free drive, less than 10 minutes away) to Hunchback Mountain Bike Park. Once Greg was all geared up, I let him do his thing while I headed over to Swainsona Reserve and went searching for the rare Smooth Darling Pea. (Psst: I found it!) I also spotted an echidna and I was pretty chuffed about that too.
3.30pm – A Late Lunch
Since we were both pretty full from that big breakfast, we sought out a quick bite so we wouldn’t be too full for our dinner booking. We went to La Maison Restaurant at Gateway Village on our way back across the border and shared a plate of king prawn linguine with a side of aioli chips. The restaurant is set in a beautiful artists’ community, so we pottered about a bit there, soaking up the arty atmosphere and natural beauty.
4.00pm – Walking Between States
From there, we joined the riverside path and walked our way across the Murray and back into NSW. What a pleasant stroll downstream along the river, full of birdsong and lush bushland. We ended up in Noreuil Park, where the gum and plane trees are toweringly huge and there’s easy access to the river for a swim. We didn’t have our togs, so we just slipped our feet in and watched the tannin-stained water rolling by, before making our way back to Victoria on foot!
5.30pm – An Indigenous Art Trail
It was a bit far for us to walk to the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk from Noreuil after a big day, so we went back for the car and drove 5 minutes to the start of the trail. We unloaded both our bikes and had an easy, joy-filled cruise along the Murray, taking in all the Wiradjuri stories and perspectives in the many sculptures dotted along the trail. What a powerful experience! We’d have kept going to Wonga Wetlands, but we were running out of time for our dinner booking, so we took a raincheck on that one.
7.00pm – Yardbird
After a quick washup and a bit of lippy back at the hotel, we looked pretty alright for our booking at Yardbird. I’d read some great things, and by now, after a big day, we were both ready to chew an arm off. Greg got the porterhouse steak, and I could tell by the look on his face as he took his first bite that it had his tick of approval. I went for the free-range duck breast with a side of Brussels sprouts. They’d garnished them with pear, sunflower seeds, radish, caramelised apple dressing and pecorino, and my goodness, what a meal!
9.00pm – Nightcap and Then Bed
Greg was tired from mountain biking, but I reminded him we were on holiday and YOLO or whatever they say, so he agreed to come for a drink at the Albion Hotel rooftop bar. He cheered right up when he saw the view. We treated ourselves to cocktails and soaked up the ambience of the bar before heading back to Quest to tuck into the softest sheets. Greg said he had the best night’s sleep ever, and I knew he was telling the truth because the man snored like a diesel chainsaw.
Day Two
9.00am – Coffee On-the-Go and Wetlands
We’d planned an earlier start but woke up at 8, nevermind. We got coffees to go in our keep cups from The Riverdeck Café and then drove out to the Wonga Wetlands to take in the thriving birdlife. With 350 species of birds, there was plenty of lively action for me to fix my binoculars on while Greg sat on a bench, closed his eyes and said he was ‘listening for bird calls.’ (I heard a snore.) I thought it was a lovely way to start the day – and definitely worth the return trip.
11:30pm – Brunch and a Road Trip
We’d noticed Canvas Eatery the day before while visiting MAMA, so we popped back for some brunch on the deck. What a gorgeous location on the deck, under the shade of a grapevine. We both got perfectly cooked eggs and coffee that gets the seal of approval from us two Melbournites. And then we had a quick stop at Almar Organics to stock up on antipasto platter ingredients for a picnic on the road.
1:00pm – Lake Hume Driving Loop
Wow. I could go on and on about this (there was so much to see), but I’ll try to keep it short. We started at Eastern Hill, part of the famous Hume + Hovell walking track, then went onwards to Hume Dam wall. Greg loves his engineering, so we stayed here for a bit and enjoyed the view. We took in the views from Huon Hill Lookout, enjoyed our picnic, spotted a few kangaroos, enjoyed the silence. From there, we meandered through scenic countryside, stopping at the Bonegilla Migrant Experience, a moving insight into history. To indulge Greg’s insatiable appetite for history, we stopped into the Bandiana Army Museum, home to one of Australia’s most extensive and fascinating military collections. The drive was fantastic; what a way to spend the day.
6.00pm – A Drink and an Early Meal
The driving loop ended back at Gateway Village, so we headed to The Lincoln for a drink and a feed. What a cosy place, with Chesterfield leather lounges and that heritage pub feel that is both welcoming and classy. I ordered a warm roast vegetable salad, and Greg went for the Lincoln Parmi, topped with ham and slow-cooked tomato and basil ragu. All in all, it was the kind of meal that makes you feel both a little bit fancy and totally at home.
Final Thoughts
I’d love to say we stayed up late and went for a tipple at Two Fingers Whisky and Music Bar as I’d planned. But it had been a big couple of days, and our apartment was calling us back. A blockbuster while sprawled out in our king-sized bed sounded like just the ticket, so we called it a night at the wee hour of 7.53pm.
Albury Wodonga surprised us in the best way. It’s easy to get around, full of green spaces, art, culture and small, unexpected pleasures around every corner. I didn’t expect to be so very charmed. We will most definitely be returning. Though next time, I will remember to pack my earplugs. Greg’s snoring is no joke.
By Janette Buchanan, Caufield